Gisby's Gaming Blog

June 22, 2015

Guns for Fun 3 – Turkish WW1 Guns

Filed under: WW1 — Tags: , , , , , , — gisby @ 00:01

I needed another opponent for my WW1 Russians, so I decided to build a Turkish force. I used the Copplestone Castings Back of Beyond Turks, because they are gorgeous figures.

Unfortunately, the range is somewhat limited, having only Command, Infantry, and HMG & crew figures. I still needed Artillery.

My first solution was to take the Back of Beyond Chinese field gun, and replace the heads on the crew. The uniforms aren’t perfectly accurate, but you can’t really see them well, clustered around the gun. I have absolutely no idea what type the gun represents.

turgun1b turgun1c

For a second piece, I turned to Irregular MiniaturesVery Useful Guns range, and picked up a German 77mm gun and Turkish crew.

turgun2b turgun2a

I found myself with a spare pair of kneeling Irregular Turks, so I removed their rifles, and paired them with a spare HMG from my parts box. They turned out well, I think.

trkmg2a trkmg2b

May 11, 2015

Some Guns for Fun

Filed under: WW1 — Tags: , , , , — gisby @ 01:41

When building WW1 forces, you need more than Infantry. You need Machine Guns and Artillery.Unfortunately, what you want is sometimes not available.

I built a WW1 BEF force from RENEGADE Early War British. I had to alter some hats to 1914 styles, but overall they are a good-looking range.

But I wanted a small Canadian force so I could fight Second Ypres. The infantry was easy, I just painted them a different shade than the British. It’s not 100% correct, the uniforms were not identical, but it’s good enough for me.

I made a Colt MG and crewed it with spare Artillery figures. Most parts are from the Vickers guns, I just made the actual gun, from wire & putty.

canmg1 canmg2

The Canadian gun is a 4.5 in. QF Howitzer from tin-soldier.com. I chose the dark green because I wanted it to look like the die-cast toy artillery of my youth. The gun is an excellent kit, fits together well, and looks good when finished. (I actually made this piece so I could use the gun. I really like the kit)

The crew is from the RENEGADE 18 pounder.

cangun1 cangun2

I bought another 4.5 in QF Howitzer for my Interwar Chinese. I used my Chinese Gun & Crew for my WW1 Turks.

The crew are made from random Chinese figures from Copplestone Castings.

chigun2 chigun1

April 8, 2009

Pulp Gaming: Radon Zombies of the Ionosphere Juggernaut

Filed under: Pulp Gaming, Review — Tags: , , — gisby @ 04:29

I recently got a bunch of the ‘Radon Zombies of the Ionosphere’ from Pulp Figures

There are three packs, PWM16-18, each of 5 figures (with one figure being an emplaced ray gun).

zombi02

As always, they are cleanly cast, with no flash, and minimal mould lines.

zombi04 zombi05 zombi03

zombi06

The figures themselves represent the rubber-suited minions of an evil mastermind in the spirit of the old movie serials.

They are animated and full of character: Angry, evil, and full of loathing for puny humanity

zombi07 zomb01

They portray these minions well, evoking the genre perfectly: So much so that I had to build a juggernaut to accompany them.

jugger03

The Juggernaut is loosely based on the vehicle in the ‘Undersea Empire’ serial of the 1930’s.

The body is made from styrene sheet of various thicknesses, and the rivets are punched using a 1mm hole punch.

I bought a plastic model tank at a dollar store, intending to use it’s single-piece tracks , but they proved unsuitable. Thankfully it also had wheels so it could roll, and these were perfect.

jugger01

The windows/shutters were made from plastic & stretched sprue, and were built on a soft plastic sheet. When they were hard, I popped them off the sheet and attached them to the turret.

jugger04

The roof hatch opens so the commander can look impressive as it screams along the road. The ray gun can be placed on the roof for morefirepower.

jugger05

The front boss is a button, and the spikes are small nails.

When finished, I spray painted the juggernaut, and weathered it with a mixture of magic wash and cat hair. (Not that I WANTED the cat hair….)

I am pleased with the juggernaut, and I am VERY pleased with my Pulp Figures Zombies of the Ionosphere.

RECOMMENDED

Buy some now!

AVAILABLE FROM:

Pulp Figures
Address P.O. Box 29063
Okanagan Mission R.P.O.
Kelowna, BC
V1W 4A7, CANADA

http://www.pulpfigures.com/

 

 

 

 

 

 

August 18, 2008

Darkest Africa: The Shostim Trading Company

Filed under: terrain, Victorian Adventure Gaming — Tags: , , — gisby @ 00:29

Or…. IT TOOK ME TWO YEARS TO MAKE CHICK’S BIRTHDAY PRESENT

In this time, I did a lot of other stuff: A half dozen websites, masters for 50+ miniatures, painted about 1000 figures. In the end, I decided to just FINISH it, and it took… 3 days. It was sitting at that stage for months. I am a slug. I’m a slug. A lazy slug. I had an idea for a birthday gift for my pal Chick, and it took two years to finish it.

When it was done, and in the post, I put up a website with these pictures, and invited the guys at ColonialWars to comment on it, but Chick wasn’t allowed to peek.

I only hope he got as much satisfaction out of it as I did in making it.

THE FACTORY

The view above shows the building with a 28mm Warrior Zulu for scale. The building is made from craft sticks and bamboo skewers. As usual, the roof is cardboard, thatched with brushed-out string. The factory is designed with small windows for ventilation, and loopholes in the walls.

shostim2 shostim3
Here’s two views from the front: It looks bowed, but that’s caused by the close-up lens. The door near the sign is the door to the factory, the double door leads to the storage room. (There is also access from the inside)  I haven’t showed the back because it’s just a blank wall with some loopholes in it.

I wanted it to have a generally ramshackle, rundown air: Like it was a forgotten post in the middle of nowhere.

Thankfully my work always looks like that.

shostim4

Of course the doors open and the roof comes off, otherwise it’s far less useful for gaming. It also needed some interior detail, or it would just be a badly-made box. I swear it is not bowed like this!

shostim7 shostim6

shostim5Above we see the main sales area: I tried to make the goods at least sort-of-identifiable. There are books (each one with a hidden treasure map) and ammunition on the top shelf, with canned goods and flour below. A rack displays a number of guns for sale.

The front counter has bolts of fabric in unattractive colours. The black pad is magnetic rubber, to hold various artifacts. There are a pair of hoes in the corner and a few cases & barrels.

The shelves are glued in place, but the barrels & crates are loose so they won’t get in the way of figures.

Finally, we have a general overview, showing the ‘storage’ area and the treasures within. Barely visible are a pair of hats on the wall by the door, and the factor’s grubby, unmade bed..

cstuff2

Here are the various treasures and accessories: Chick already has plenty of treasures, but I thought the factory shouldn’t be empty. The goods can also be used as cargo in boats, whatever.

cstuff3

This is the underside of the bed: It’s a slat bed and they are not very comfortable.

The factor’s “wife” lives in her own hut on the other side of the clearing.

chut1 cstuff1
It’s made from a papier mache birdhouse bought at Michaels. I just thatched the roof and cut a door into the side. There’s also a natty plaid blanket on the floor. The pot is a bead with a wire rim.

She sets out a blanket when she sees visitors coming. The blanket is cotton cloth, glued to magnetic sheet, with the ends frayed. The bowls are thumbtacks, the fruits are mustard seed.

barra2 barra1

This was originally intended as a palisade, but can be used as a palisade, herd enclosure, or barracoon.

It’s made from bamboo skewers, strengthened with bands of dyed string glued to the inside. The gates are hinged as seen at How to Hang a Door. (For that matter, so are the Factory doors)

idol1 idol2 idol3

Chick likes horror, so I thought I’d give him some mystery toys.

The two carved pillars are craft store beads, as are the two blue pots. Their bases are magnets, and the tops and spots on the bases are magnets too.The various ritual items (Jade head, ebony head, skull, pots, food offering, mummified baby, blood-smeared stone) are also based on magnets. This allows them to stay on the idol or on the counter of the factory. (Chick lives in earthquake-land, and magnet bases are handy when the house moves!)

 

August 13, 2008

Darkest Africa: Native huts

Filed under: terrain, Victorian Adventure Gaming — Tags: , , — gisby @ 23:36

delme

When Foundry first started their Darkest Africa range, I was quite excited. The possibilities for adventure in the great untamed continent seemed endless. And so it has proven.

So of course I needed to make some scenery for my games. Where better to start than huts? A quick internet search showed a wide variety of native buildings: I chose these because they are so generic.

So of course I needed to make some scenery for my games. Where better to start than huts? A quick internet search showed a wide variety of native buildings: I chose these because they are so generic.

They sort of scream ‘African Hut’, but with wicker or stone walls, they would serve equally well as Celtic round houses.

They MAY be a little small (or not) but it’s always better to have buildings as small as possible (without looking stupid) so they don’t take over the table.

The bodies of the huts are made from a papier-mache box from a craft store: I cut it in half: This left me with a half with a bottom, and another without a bottom. Sooooo…. I glued a floor to the part without a ‘bottom.’

When this was dry, I cut doors into the ‘front’. I left mine open, but you could close them with a screen, curtain, or even a wooden door.

hutb

The roof is a cone made of poster board. It’s three layers thick, bound with white glue and is now a strong cardboard cone.

To attach the roofs, I made a ring from layers of poster board sized to fit the top. Using tabs, I glued it to the cone.

The thatching is made from teased out 1″ lengths of cotton string, teased out and glued down in layers, a tiny bit at a time. (To avoid warping) The bottom row takes forever, but each one above it takes far less: The last takes no time at all, and extends past the top, where it is tied off in a tuft.

The whole roof is painted with diluted white glue, and painted once dry.

They are a bit time-consuming, but I think they are worth the effort.

chutThe grain jars (Yes, they really are that big in real life!) are turned wooden candle-holder cups from a craft store.

On the other hand…. In another craft store, I found papier-mache birdhouses, the same size as my huts, and the same shape (albeit with a shallower roof). All they needed was a door cut in (or painted on) and thatching, to make huts every bit as good-looking as mine. The pot by the door is a wooden bead with a rim made from soft wire.

Zulu storage huts are similar, but set up on platforms. Zulu huts have walls , but rounded rather than pointed tops, and all tend to have a distinctive pattern of weaving: I’ll make some Zulu huts later.

sudhuts

Simpler huts, seen in the Soudan and other places are made by making a circle of upright sticks, and tying them together at the top. Sticks are woven through these, making a loose basket, and thatching is attached over these. Apache Wikiups are made in a similar fashion.

I formed the shells of these over 1/2 Xmas decoration balls from a craft store, using layers of paper & white glue. I formed them inside the ball sections, and removed them while they were still wet.

When they hardened, I attached them to cardboard bases (for strength) and thatched the exterior with glue & string. When all was hardened again, I cut the doors and painted the thatching.

You could just cover Styrofoam ball halves with paper & thatching, It would be easier, faster, and probably just as effective.

August 12, 2008

Darkest Africa: King’s Hall. An Ideal first Project

Filed under: terrain, Victorian Adventure Gaming — Tags: , , — gisby @ 22:56

African King's HallThis was a simple piece inspired by a papier-mache box sold in a craft store. It has a plain rectangular bottom, but the lid was a gabled roof-shape with overhanging eaves. It is structurally strong, and is pre-made with a removable roof. There are several sizes available, including some I have looked at for European buildings.

I originally bought it years ago to make into a Dark Ages Hall (which wouldn’t really have been all that different) but looking through Stanley’s Darkest Africa books I saw a similar structure and was thus inspired.

King's Hall

I drew a line on the outside of the box bottom, where I wanted the lid to sit. I then glued matchsticks to the sides with the tops aligned with this line (one side at a time) and when dried, sawed them flush with the bottom. When dry I weathered them with a black wash. (A doorway was cut into the front of the hall.)

I also used matchsticks braced inside to keep the side walls from warping inwards as the glue set. These were removed when the glue had set completely.

King's Hall

All in all, a simple craft project of gluing sticks & string to decorate a cardboard box. (All too similar to kindergarten arts & crafts) If you feel you have no talent for this sort of thing, it’s an ideal first project. There is essentially no cutting, fitting, or measuring.I thatched the roof & sides with frayed-out string painted with white glue. and finished the peak with a roof-beam. The thatching was painted, and dry-brushed to bring out the details… A RAFM shield was glued to the front of the roof as a decoration.

Overall cost was probably about $5.00 Canadian, plus of course my time, which is beyond price!

The figures in the pictures are from Foundry’s Darkest Africa range. The greenery is made from cake decoration palm trees

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